Plant rooted cuttings directly in the ground next to the arbor and water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Reduce watering frequency as the plant becomes established.
Or grow the rooted cuttings in a container for one or two seasons until a larger root system develops. Northern gardeners should bury the pot in a protected location during the winter. Or increase your chance for success by layering the vine. Carefully remove one of the stems from the trellis.
Check in a couple of months. It can take several years for a cutting to bloom. From seed, the vines remain in a juevenile stage for years before they are old enough to bloom. Plants grown from cuttings can shave several years off of that timeline, and a layered piece of vine can give you an even bigger head start.
Wisteria vines can get quite large, and live a long time. One vine in Japan has been dated back to the s, and covers more than half-an-acre.
They require very strong supports, and can collapse a simple wood arbor under their weight. In some states, wisteria is considered invasive or noxious.
Wisteria has to be slightly root-bound for best bloom performance. If yours doesn't bloom after a few years, try root-pruning it. They don't like to be overwatered, and actually prefer soil that is nutrient-poor. The 2 most popular kinds of wisteria are Japanese and Chinese. The Japanese wisteria, Wisteria floribunda, is the more fragrant, but of the two, has smaller flower clusters even though the name, floribunda, would suggest otherwise.
The Chinese wisteria , Wisteria sinensis, has larger flower clusters, and sometimes blooms before the vine actually a liana fully leafs out, but is not known for its fragrance. The flowers can get frost-nip in areas of the country where winter lingers. Interestingly, the vines of each species wind in different directions.
The Chinese wisteria twines Counterclockwise remember 'C' for Chinese, 'C' for Counterclockwise , and the Japanese wisteria grows clockwise remember by making a 'J' in the air with your finger, and the hook heads clockwise. Do your research before taking on the commitment of wisteria. It can get out of hand quickly.
In Olympia, WA, there is a wisteria that has escaped cultivation. It has taken over a clump of Douglas-fir trees, nearly reaching the top - a height of about feet. Wisteria can cover a barn. If you plant it under your eaves, it can rip your roof off. The goal with Asian wisteria is to 'control' them - a lifelong commitment. I suggest that you look for cultivars derived from our native American wisteria that are smaller though non-fragrant and easier to maintain, such as 'Amythest Falls'.
We inherited a big wisteria, when we bought our house. It is wrapped half way around our deck, and gives us lots of privacy. It blooms bigger and better every year with out fail. I absolutely love it, but yes it need a big pruning every week. This involves pruning very low branches out, training in strong side shoots and cutting back side shoots to five buds in early August. Throughout the life of the wisteria cut back any shoots that appear below the graft union right back to the main stem.
The long wispy growth is very evident at this time and if not removed will become a nuisance. When pruning wisteria in February cut back the very same shoots but back to three buds. Few gardeners propagate wisteria as the wait for flowers is too long. However, if you want a challenge, take softwood cuttings in mid spring. Cut lengths of new stem of about 15cm long, removing from the parent plant above a leaf joint. Cut the material back to about 10cm, just below a leaf joint.
Remove the lower leaves, leaving about four at the top of each cutting. Fill pots with cutting compost, level and firm the compost and then water. When signs of growth are evident remove the bag and pot on. The most common problem experienced by wisteria growers is lack of flowers. Wisterias take time to flower; expecting flowers before the plant is four years old may be unrealistic. Wisterias that are grown from seed can take up to 20 years to flower but these are rarely, if ever, sold.
Stick the base of the wisteria cutting bundle into a 1-gallon bag filled with moist sphagnum moss. Store the wisteria cuttings in the refrigerator until spring before rooting them in the ground or in a pot. Rooting wisteria cuttings directly in the garden is simple to do and requires fewer pieces of equipment than starting the cuttings in pots. In spring after the soil warms, prepare a planting site for the wisteria cuttings in a sunny, fast-draining bed near the base of an arbor or pergola.
North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension recommends spacing wisteria 6 to 12 inches apart, so choose a location that will provide enough space for their mature spread.
Break up the soil and remove any large rocks that might impact root production, but don't worry about adding fertilizer or amendments to the soil since wisteria grows well in average soil.
Poke a planting hole in the soil that is deep enough to accommodate all but the top 2 inches of the wisteria. The top node of the wisteria cutting should be 1 to 2 inches above the surface of the soil.
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